Wednesday, November 4, 2009

The Wide World of Cider, part two

Since my teen years, I've been a cider enthusiast and a proponent of real cider over glorified apple juice that calls itself cider (see previous post). I'd been vaguely aware -- but only vaguely -- of cider's origins as some sort of alcohol-related drink. An encounter with some cheap-brand "hard apple cider" in college left me with a bad impression; it was nothing more than a crass apple-flavored wine cooler.

About a month ago, I ran across this article on Slate.com. Fascinating and informative, it details cider's traditional prominence in colonial America. It clarifies what traditional cider really is - not a malt-based beer derivative, but more of an apple-based wine. It challenged my notion of what the words "real cider" actually mean. And most importantly, it instilled in me a healthy curiosity and an eagerness to explore.

It's difficult to find cider in the U.S., as the craft has only recently been revived. Fortunately, we live in the age of the internet, and can have bottles shipped directly to us from producers (provided your state does not ban direct-to-consumer shipment; Free the Grapes!). I found Bellwether to have a nice variety of ciders, easy online ordering, and prompt shipping. The Slate article mentions other good online ordering options as well.


I ordered three types of cider from Bellwether. Liberty Dry, which they describe on their site as a good starting point for newcomers; Original, because why wouldn't you try the original; and Spyglass, which seems to be a non-sparkling version of Original, and was said to pair well with many foods.

What to expect: As the Slate article notes, "traditional cider tastes no more like apples than wine tastes like grapes." Don't expect a sugary apple juice taste, but rather a complex array of flavor tones for a more mature palate.

It's worth pointing out that ciders are not weighed down by alcohol content. The heaviest of the three I sampled was 6.9% alcohol. This left a lot of room to savor the flavors, and prevented the burden of an alcohol buzz.

The verdict: The ciders I sampled were very good. They're light and sweet (though note that I didn't sample any dry varieties). My overall impression is that the general taste of cider falls on a scale somewhere between white wine and champagne. Two of the ciders I sampled were sparkling; but the sparkle was gentler than any champagne I've ever had, very easygoing. I was impressed with these ciders, and look forward to seeking out more. They're crisp, fruity, and very tasty.

As Thanksgiving approaches, I can strongly recommend making one of the still ciders your table wine during the meal, or choose one of the sparkling ciders as an aperitif. As an apple-based beverage, they fit a harvest season meal perfectly. Order soon so you have them in plenty of time for the holiday!

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